I recall the first time that Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfumes caught my eye in John Lewis. It was the kaleidoscope of colours from the beautifully crafted bottles that initially drew me in like a moth-to-the-flame. The first fragrance I sampled that day is still one of my favourites, Grand Soir.
Francis Kurkdjian combines his unbridled passion with the finest ingredients to create captivating, enchanting and incredibly elegant fragrances. Here in this review, I will take you on a journey to discover the best Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfume for her.
We will begin with a short trip back in time.
Who Is Francis Kurkdjian?
Although nobody knew it at the time, 1985 was a big year for fragrance. This was the year that the French-born 15-year-old Francis Kurkdjian decided to become a perfumer.
As with most future visionaries, although he had no knowledge (at all) about the profession, he was not about to let the small detail of inexperience sway him from his dream. 5 years later he enrols into the international school of perfumery in Versailles and begins learning his craft.
A staggeringly 3 short years later he creates an incredible fragrance that became a worldwide sensation; Le Mâle, which was the first men’s fragrance by Jean Paul Gaultier
From this point he grew in reputation and in 2009 he co-founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Marc Chaya.
10 Best Maison Francis Kurkdjian Perfumes
Coming up are the results of my research for the best Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfumes for women. Some you will find here are more spring/summer, others autumn/winter, all are utterly irresistible. Here are my top 10 picks.
1. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540
Review
Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum is an intoxicating oriental floral fragrance with a sultry sweet woody/amber vibe. It is both seductive and sophisticated.
Begins with a beautifully sweet opening of what can only be described as candy-floss from the fun-fair. Leads into bittersweet saffron as dry-down approaches.
Amber and fir combine with rich/woody notes of cedar gives a sense of sophistication and class. A waft of dark brown sugar seems to come from nowhere and certainly adds to the intrigue. This is a very seductive female fragrance.
You need to try this before buying as may not be love at first sniff. However, I implore you to let is settle on the skin for 20 minutes to get those more in-depth sweet notes.
As for when to wear; this felt more of an autumn/winter fragrance as the spicy woody notes would suggest. However the sweetness keeps this from being a night-time only fragrance, so it’s perfect for any time of day.
Baccarat Rouge 540 provided outstanding longevity with its woody/amber sweetness and lasted 8+ hours on my skin.
In Summary:
A woody/amber fragrance that is clearly in a class of its own. Leans more to feminine thanks to the mix of spice and sensual sweetness.
Top Notes:
Jasmine, Saffron
Mid Notes:
Amberwood, Ambergris
Base Notes:
Fir, Cedar
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
2. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir
Review
Grand Soir Eau de Parfum is an addictive oriental fragrance that is super smooth, warm and blended to perfection.
It opens with warm notes of amber and slightly fruity/sweet labdanum, your attention is then drawn quite quickly to spicy/sweet vanilla. Upon dry-down is where notes of benzoin and tonka bean add the final touches of what can only be described as a vibrant and ultra-smooth base.
This is quite simply one of those staggeringly sleek and sophisticated fragrances that need to be worn to be appreciated.
Although there are a fair number of amber/vanilla fragrances available, this one resides on the ‘high-quality’ camp and shows get what you pay for.
This is undoubtedly an autumn/winter fragrance that is perfect for the evening. Allow yourself to be enveloped by this provocatively alluring fragrance.
As you would expect from such a base oriented note line-up, longevity was excellent and lasted 8+ hours on my skin.
In Summary:
A truly gorgeous spicy and sweet amber/vanilla fragrance that is smooth, creamy, and downright addictive.
Top Notes:
Labdanum
Mid Notes:
Benzoin
Base Notes:
Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Amber
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
3. Maison Francis Kurkdjian À La Rose
Review
À La Rose Eau de Parfum is a beautifully fresh pairing of both Damascus rose, and Turkish rose. This floral fragrance is romantic, youthful and bright.
Opens with a fresh citrus combination of bergamot and orange. As the initial intensity of the citrus top notes subsides, a bouquet of mixed rose makes a graceful entrance and pirouettes with delicate violet and lingering citrus. As dry-down commences, a light base of musk and cedar comes from beneath and is the perfect combination to complement the magic of the florals.
The cedar develops over the coming hours to become less woody and more creamy. I could swear I can detect tonka bean.
This is a gorgeous citrus/rose fragrance which is exceptionally soft and powdery. It’s delicate without being bland, floral without being overpowering.
Provides a fresh floral vibe and is suitable to wear during those sunny spring and summer months. More day-time than night-time, I would suggest. Longevity is 5+ hours, so pretty good for a citrus/floral fragrance.
In Summary:
A delightful feminine blend of rose focused powdery florals and zingy citrus. A beautiful summertime floral fragrance.
Top Notes:
Bergamot, orange
Mid Notes:
Damascus rose, Turkish rose, violet, magnolia
Base Notes:
Cedar, musk
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
4. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Apom Pour Femme
Review
Apom Pour Femme Eau de Parfum is a charmingly warm and sunny floral/woody female fragrance that is luxuriously creamy and powdery.
Opens with the citrus-floral combination of Tunisian Orange flower. After a few minutes, the heady and slightly sweet scent of ylang-ylang makes its way to centre-stage. Used in many classic fragrances, this note alone transported me back in time. Upon dry-down, the soft woodiness of cedar is presented to showcase the top and mid notes and completes this beautiful fragrance equation.
This is one of the most beautiful florals you are likely to encounter and certainly deserves to be added to your wish list. Awe-inspiring results with so few perfume notes.
As for when to wear; more of a day-time fragrance during spring/summer and easing nicely into autumn. Longevity 6+ hours.
In Summary:
One of those stunningly classic feminine floral fragrances that feels timeless. Perfect for the more mature fragrance lover. The younger generation should also try this on for size, the ylang-ylang is stunning.
Top Notes:
Orange flower
Mid Notes:
Ylang-Ylang
Base Notes:
Cedar
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
5. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumière Noire
Review
Lumière Noire Pour Femme Eau de Parfum is an exciting creation of rose, patchouli and daffodil with a hint of spice.
Now be warned, this one starts off smelling so strongly of narcissus & patchouli that it will make your head spin. The initial opening is off-putting. However, you need to let it settle as that is where the magic happens.
After 5 – 10 minutes it settles nicely and sits closer to the skin. For your patience, you are rewarded with a delightful bouquet of rose and hypnotic spice that simply dance with joy.
This is not like any other rose/daffodil/patchouli fragrance I have encountered. Far more heavy, dark, and a little bit spicier.
Lumière Noire can be worn any time of year and can move effortlessly from being a day-time to a night-time fragrance with ease.
Long-lasting at 6+ hours on the skin.
In Summary:
If you can hold your nerve while this fragrance settles, you will be rewarded for the next 6+ hours with an aroma that feels almost niche. Fantastic.
Top Notes:
Spices
Mid Notes:
Rose, narcissus
Base Notes:
Patchouli
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
6. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Silk Mood
Review:
Another string starter that needs a few moments before you make your decision.
Opens with a slight citrus vibe and an immense wave of rose and chamomile that is deeper than I was expecting. The oud noticeable right away, but is just getting started.
After 10 minutes, what can only be described as stunning woody notes fro the oud appear, swiftly followed by musk, and an even darker rose.
After full dry-down, it grows darker and more profound. The oud settles a little more, and the fragrance finally takes shape. Interestingly there are some spicy, peppery notes and zesty bergamot that keep coming to the front for the first couple of hours. Stunning.
Perfect feminine fragrance for chilly autumn/winter nights where the woodiness of oud is softened by beautiful rose and chamomile.
Longevity was excellent at 7+ hours, the rose and oud in particularly lasted incredibly well.
In Summary:
A rich and sensual Oriental blend of contrasting floral and woody notes to highlight your mysterious side.
Top Notes:
Bergamot
Mid Notes:
Rose, chamomile, hedione
Base Notes:
Woody notes, oud, papyrus
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
7. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Pour
Review
Amyris Pour Femme Eau De Parfum is a total crowd-pleaser. It’s a fun and care-free summer scent that will delight the senses.
The opening is breathtakingly good and consists initially of lemon blossom and beautifully delicate iris. The iris continues to discreetly bloom over the initial first 10 minutes.
As the dry-down continues, the refreshing opening remains. However, the slightly sweet, vanilla-like Amyris begins to creep in to cast its woody magic. Finally after 30 minutes or so the fragrance more powdery and allows the competing base notes of musk and vetiver to also shine through.
Feels elegant and feminine and certainly one to add to your collection. Impressive that it smells floral considering iris usually is quite a muted flower. Clearly, the Amyris adds excitingly new nuances.
Provides a bright floral feeling and suitable to wear during spring/summer. More day-time than night-time I would recommend. Longevity is 6+ hours
In summary:
A perfectly balanced and intricate feminine fragrance that is bright and floral.
Top Notes:
Mandarin blossom
Mid Notes:
Jasmine, iris
Base Notes:
Amyris, woody notes
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
8. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Gold
Review
Gentle Fluidity Gold Eau de Parfum is a slightly sweet musk/vanilla fragrance that demonstrates you don’t need a floral fuelled fragrance to feel feminine.
Opening with a wave of sweet and sparkling vanilla and amber, these soon mellow after a few minutes to reveal a lighter side of juniper notes.
Dry-down is beautiful and well worth the wait as the base of woody notes and spices such as nutmeg bring a feeling of sophistication and opulence to the occasion.
This is an incredibly versatile fragrance that can be worn during any season and any time of day or night. The performance was a reasonable 6+ hours on the skin.
If you are looking for a vanilla scent that is not only sparkling but spicy and sultry, then look no further. Could certainly give my all-time favourite Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille a run for its money
Layers incredibly well with Bacarrat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum
In Summary:
Overall, a classy and sophisticated fragrance that evolves as the hours’ pass. Certainly one for the collection.
Top Notes:
Juniper berries
Mid Notes:
Nutmeg, coriander
Base Notes:
Musk, amber, woody notes, vanilla
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
9. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Silver
Review
Gentle Fluidity Silver Eau de Parfum is living proof that two perfumes with the same notes can be totally different.
The sister of Gentle Fluidity Gold, Gentle Fluidity Silver Eau de Parfum opens with the clean, crisp, freshness of juniper. There are also several notes such as coriander and nutmeg, to spice things up. After just a few minutes, you are greeted with musk and light woody notes. At the dry-down, a blend of musk, vanilla, and coriander becomes more dominant, which is the icing on the cake.
One to leave on your skin and test thoroughly as it alters over time. Try and get a sample and wear it for a few days, it has really grown on me.
As for when to wear; Gentle Fluidity Silver is a spring/summer fragrance that is clean, crisp and spicy, yet has a subtle sweetness that keeps it more on the feminine side.
Provided excellent longevity and lasted 6+ hours on my skin.
In Summary:
A fresh and bright (yet slightly spicy) fragrance that is both refined and up-lifting.
Top Notes:
Juniper berries
Mid Notes:
Nutmeg, coriander
Base Notes:
Musk, amber, woody notes, vanilla
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
10. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Féminin Pluriel
Review
Féminin Pluriel Eau de Parfum is a sensual blend of powdery feminine florals that feels both elegant and luxurious. Undeniably a fragrance that will get you noticed for all the right reasons.
The top notes of orange blossom, jasmine, and patchouli are first to delight.
The beautiful combination of rose, iris, and violet florals bloom during the initial dry-down and interweave perfectly with the sophisticated grassy/woody/earthy base of vetiver
It felt like strolling through a magical forest full of beautiful florals whose only task is to delight the senses. This is a lovely combination that I think many may want to make this soft, sexy, elegant and fragrance their signature scent for the summer.
Unquestionably a spring/summer fragrance, in my opinion. Longevity 5+ hours.
In Summary:
An elegant and sophisticated delicately blended powdery floral experience. Perfect for first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and everything in-between
Top Notes:
Orange Blossom
Mid Notes:
Iris, violet, rose, jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley
Base Notes:
Vetiver, patchouli
Price & Reviews
You can check the latest pricing, see customer reviews and shop online at John Lewis:
Conclusion
If you have yet to sample one of the many beautiful Maison Francis Kurkdjian fragrances, then today is the day that you need to add an entry into your diary and invest in your fragrance loving self.
As you may have noticed, even though this article focuses on the best Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfume for her, a number are unisex fragrances. Francis Kurkdjian himself explains that no individual perfume note has a gender attached to it.
“ Forget about the ingredient and surrender to your emotions. ”
Francis Kurkdjian
Before you go, I have put together a review of the most elegant perfumes ranging from timeless classics to modern day sophistication that I think you will enjoy.
Further Reading
Below are some additional articles from Viora London’s blog. We write articles on a number of interesting lifestyle topics such as fragrance, beauty, designer handbags, luxury accessories and more.
